One year ago today--School shooting in Baku

April 30, 2009... a lone gunman entered one of the universities here in Baku...the State Oil Academy and open fired..before shooting himself he killed 12-13 people...mostly students, faculty and cleaning personel. It was a very tragic story something that seems more familiar to school shootings all to familiar to us in the US. Today, students and other tried to mark the anniversary by honoring those slained but keeping in the tradition of this government to prohibit any public demonstrations of any kind....everyone was arrested and hauled away.

Several of my co-workers, many of whom never comment negatively about the government, expressed disappointment that the memories of the slain couldn't be honored. Never do they say the government is wrong....

Baku Underground Metro System

Against the advice of the US State Department and the US Embassy in Azerbaijan, I rode the underground by myself for the first time. Okay, I only went one stop in each direction but nonetheless, it was still a journey. The system built during the Soviet glory days is actually quite spectacular...nothing like the Paris Metro ...but the station closest to my apartment is filled with amazing mosaic scenes out of Politburo worker's lives. Unfortunately, it is a BIG NO NO to take photos of any of the stations....they are just a little paranoid since there was a terrorist bombing several years ago at two of the stations. I won't even daring to try to sneak a cell phone photo..too bad...amazing works.
So why does the US govt suggests that Americans not ride...well, the potential for more bombings of course...but what struck me immediately (I've rode the Metro with colleagues) there is only one entrance (and exit) at most stations. So if there is an event---fire, power outrage, etc....one could easily get trampled in the rush to escape. Bummer...so for now, I'll keep my journey to one station.

Couldn't resist....

No, I have not gone back to eating lamb just yet...but I had promised myself that I was going to stop taking photos of the cats.....since inspite of my best efforts and my calendar sales (thank you all) I am not able to impact the life of one street cat...there's tons more now. But on Sunday, on the way to the gym....yes, I found it....with camera in tow I walked upon this scene...kinda of surreal...don't you think...sitting on a hollowed out TV...

Russian architect and swearing off lamb

Let me start with the Russian architect...not so aesthically attractive but they sure did build to last...and unfortunately, benign and more often intended neglect it leading to the collaspe of these building around Baku. Occassionally, I'll run across one that is being renovated like the Russian Drama house but usually the other building are be torn down or are just falling down. It's kind of unfortunate from a preservation standpoint. I am sure future generations of Azeris will wonder why their forefathers and foremothers let it happen but after 70 years of occupation and repression by the Soviets it is understandably why Azeris don't give two shits about restoring the buildings...I came across this building today and my photos don't do it justice but you can tell it was quite spectacular in its day...

And, you know I've blogged about the slaughtering of lamb thing here as a national holiday. Well, I thought as long as I left town that weekend in November I'd be spared..well, this week I decided as much as I love lamb...swearing off of it. I walked past a small truck that had a peculiar odor and I peered in without breaking stride...two very dirty and woolly sheep muching on straw and as I stepped up on the curb...directly ahead a butcher shop...oh, damn the Azeris love their "really, really, really fresh lamb here"....I need mine to be a little deader...

Friday in Baku

....another week down. I've been busy this week thus sorry folks no photos. What a job it has been being the director of admissions here...I have never, ever, ever worked so hard to land just 25-30 students...this was a billion times more exhausting than dealing with the thousands of law school students that I've encountered over the decades. Often I had to take a deep breath and say...okay...this is the first time ever this country and my colleagues have ever had an "admissions process"....rather they have operated with the legacy of very regimented and mechanical system inherited from the former USSR....let me simply say there is no free choice here...and I am glad that I have played a small role in introducing a new paradigm to a far away place...now for a steak!!!! Gosh, I miss meat....

Volcanic Ash

I know seems like the ash plume is no where near Azerbaijan but I can easily take a train back to the US from here and given the history of the volcano for sustaining eruption....I'm starting to worry about whether I'll be able to get out of this place when I'm ready to leave. I have already started checking flights that fly in a more southern hemisphere route....even if my next flight out of Baku isn't for months. May have to think about Baku to Dubai to Atlanta to Philadelphia...but you know the drill...getting home is priceless...if home is where you want to be.

Meanwhile I just love these large black and gray birds that seem to be everywhere in Baku

The uncertainty is crushing me

You probably thought what is she talking about...something that's a common cultural characteristic in the former USSR republics is that you live with the shadow of uncertainty and how quickly things can change. Perhaps it is just that I'm American....I can't stand how you blink and something is gone and what's the hard part..the people seem undistrubed by it...For me the routines that I've been able to establish here help...but today the stark reality hit me as I decided to attend the church service...okay so I missed three Sunday's while in the US...but check out the church..scaffolding...closed...congregation (at least 400) gone...and on top of that my gym closed and moved too...I'm done...